Residential Gutter Replacement — Seamless Aluminum Custom-Fabricated for Your Home

Do I Need Replacement or Can I Just Repair?

This is the question every homeowner asks first — and the one they trust the least when a contractor answers it. They do not want to overpay for a full replacement when a repair would hold. They are also afraid of being talked into a repair that fails within a year.

Here is the honest framework we apply on every inspection.

Repair is the right answer when: The channel is structurally intact — no widespread corrosion, no oxidation through the aluminum wall, no deformation across multiple runs. The failure is localized: a single sagging section, a leaking end cap, a separated seam on an otherwise sound run, a disconnected downspout. The system is correctly sized for the drainage load it is receiving. In these cases, targeted repair restores drainage performance at a fraction of replacement cost and is what we recommend.

Replacement is the right answer when: Seam failures are recurring across multiple joints on an older sectional system — resealing one joint while the adjacent ones continue to fatigue is not a durable solution. The channel has corroded or oxidized through the wall at multiple points. The system is undersized and overflows regardless of condition. Storm damage has destroyed channel geometry across full runs. The fascia mounting surface has deteriorated past the point where new fasteners can hold. In these cases, repair does not solve the underlying problem — it defers it.

The answer we give on every estimate: We tell you which one it is — and why. We do not recommend replacement when repair is appropriate. The inspection findings drive the recommendation.

View gutter repair →



Seamless vs. Sectional Gutters — What the Real Difference Is

Most homeowners have no idea that seamless gutters are fabricated on-site at the property. Once they understand how the process works, the performance difference becomes obvious.

How sectional gutters are installed: Sectional gutters come in pre-cut lengths — typically 10-foot sections — that are joined together in the field. Every joint between sections requires a sealant bond to prevent leaking. A standard home might have 150–200 linear feet of gutter across all runs. On a sectional system, that is 15–20 field seams, each one a sealant bond subject to thermal cycling fatigue.

Colorado's 150+ annual freeze-thaw cycles expand and contract the aluminum at each joint throughout every season. Each cycle slightly fatigues the sealant bond. Within a few years, seams begin to fail — first as slow drips, then as open leaks. The homeowner calls for a repair. The seam is resealed. The adjacent seams continue to fatigue. The cycle repeats until the system is replaced.

How seamless gutters are installed: A seamless gutter system is roll-formed on-site from a continuous aluminum coil using a portable fabrication machine brought to the property. Each run — from one corner to the next — is formed as a single continuous piece cut to the exact length of that run. No field seams. No joints along the channel. The aluminum is matched to the exact profile, gauge, and color specified for the home.

The only seams in a seamless system are at inside and outside corners, outlets, and end caps — all of which are sealed during installation. The result is a system with dramatically fewer leak points than a sectional system, and those that exist are at fixed, known locations rather than distributed across every 10 feet of channel run.

Why this matters for longevity: Sectional systems do not fail because aluminum wears out. They fail because sealant bonds fail. Seamless systems eliminate the majority of those bonds. A correctly specified and installed seamless aluminum system on a Colorado home lasts 20–30 years. A sectional system on the same home, in the same climate, typically requires repair intervention every few years and full replacement well before the aluminum has reached its material lifespan.



Aluminum vs. Vinyl in Colorado — Why Material Selection Matters Here

This is a question that gets asked in Colorado more than almost anywhere else — and for a specific reason. A significant number of homeowners who are replacing gutters again within 10 years were sold vinyl systems on their last replacement.

The problem with vinyl gutters in Colorado: Vinyl becomes brittle in cold temperatures. At sustained sub-freezing temperatures — which Colorado sees regularly from November through March — vinyl gutter sections lose flexibility and become susceptible to cracking from impact, ice loading, and thermal contraction stress. A vinyl gutter that performs adequately in a mild climate fails progressively in Colorado's freeze-thaw environment, developing hairline cracks that widen over successive seasons until sections require replacement.

Colorado's 150+ annual freeze-thaw cycles compound this problem. Each cycle stresses the vinyl at every fastener hole, every joint, and every corner where thermal contraction forces are concentrated. Vinyl also fades and discolors under Colorado's high-altitude UV intensity — which is approximately 25% higher than at sea level — at a rate that makes systems look aged well before they are structurally failed.

Why aluminum is the correct specification for Colorado: Aluminum is ductile — it bends under stress rather than cracking. It handles freeze-thaw cycling without brittleness. It resists UV degradation far better than vinyl and retains its factory finish color for 20+ years on a quality installation. At .027 gauge standard or .032 heavy gauge, it resists hail denting better than vinyl and holds hidden hanger fasteners more securely through freeze-thaw cycling.

If your previous gutters failed within 10 years and you do not know why — look at the material. If they are vinyl, the Colorado climate is the answer. The correct replacement is seamless aluminum, not another round of the same material that failed.



Gutters as a Face Lift — The Curb Appeal Case for Replacement

Not every gutter replacement is driven by failure. A growing share of the projects we see are from homeowners who are not dealing with an active drainage problem — they are looking at stained, sagging, discolored gutters that are dragging down the appearance of an otherwise well-maintained home.

This is a legitimate and underappreciated case for replacement. Gutters run the full perimeter of the roofline — they are one of the most visible exterior elements on the home, particularly from the street. Old aluminum that has oxidized to a chalky white, vinyl that has faded to a dingy gray, or sectional systems where individual sections have been replaced over the years in mismatched colors — all of these make a home look older and less maintained than it is.

A new seamless aluminum system in a color matched to the home's exterior — selected from the manufacturer's standard baked-enamel color range — is one of the highest-return curb appeal investments available for the cost. It is substantially less expensive than new siding or a new roof, it is completed in a day, and the visible improvement is immediate along the entire roofline.

For homeowners preparing to sell, replacing old gutters before listing is a common and well-justified decision. For homeowners who have updated windows, doors, or siding and now want the gutters to match — seamless replacement makes the entire exterior look intentional rather than assembled over decades.



How Do I Know if My Fascia Is Damaged — and Does It Change the Scope?

This is the question homeowners most often feel blindsided by after receiving a replacement estimate. They called for gutters. The quote came back higher than expected. The reason is fascia damage.

Why fascia damage and gutter failure are connected: The fascia board is the mounting surface for the gutter system. When gutters fail — through seam leaks, end cap drips, or overflow — they deposit water against the fascia behind them at the same location every rain event. Over months and years, that sustained moisture exposure causes the fascia wood to soften, delaminate, and rot from behind. The damage is not visible from outside the gutter because the gutter face covers it. It only becomes apparent when the old gutter is removed.

The 70% rule: In our experience replacing gutters on older homes — and this aligns with what the industry consistently finds — approximately 70% of gutter replacement projects on homes with sagging or chronically leaking systems reveal some degree of fascia damage behind the failed section once the old gutter is removed. On homes where the gutters have been leaking for multiple seasons without repair, that percentage is higher.

What fascia damage repair involves: Deteriorated fascia sections are removed and replaced with new primed fascia board before the new gutter is installed. On limited sections — typically a few linear feet at one or two failure points — the repair adds to the scope but is manageable. On homes where fascia deterioration is widespread from years of gutter overflow, the repair scope is more significant. Either way, installing a new gutter system on compromised fascia is not a solution — the fasteners will not hold through the first winter, and the system will sag or pull within a season.

How we handle this on every estimate: We inspect fascia condition before providing a replacement estimate wherever possible. When fascia condition cannot be fully assessed until the old gutter is removed — which is sometimes the case when the damage is hidden behind the gutter face — we document the finding at removal and address the scope transparently before proceeding. No surprises after work has started.



Can Gutters Really Cause Foundation Damage?

Homeowners hear this from contractors and wonder whether it is a legitimate concern or a scare tactic to justify a larger scope. It is legitimate — and the mechanism is specific enough to evaluate rather than take on faith.

How it works: A gutter system's job is to collect roof runoff and direct it away from the structure through a controlled discharge point. When that system fails — overflow along the channel, discharge against the foundation wall, disconnected downspouts that deposit water at the base of the house — roof runoff that was supposed to travel 6–10 feet away from the foundation is instead deposited immediately adjacent to it with every rain event.

The consequences compound over time. Soil adjacent to the foundation that is repeatedly saturated expands, contracts, and erodes differently than properly draining soil. Foundation concrete that is in sustained contact with water at the footing level is subject to freeze-thaw spalling, efflorescence, and eventually cracking — particularly in Colorado's climate where freeze-thaw cycles number 150+ per year. Basement moisture intrusion and crawl space water entry are the early symptoms. Foundation movement and structural cracking are the downstream consequences of years without correction.

Proportional assessment: A gutter that has been overflowing for one season is not going to produce foundation problems. A gutter system that has been depositing water against the foundation for five or ten years, particularly on a home with a basement or crawl space, is a genuine risk. The concern is real and proportional to the duration and volume of misdirected drainage — not a scare tactic, but also not an emergency from a single storm event.

Are Gutter Guards Actually Worth It?

This is one of the most debated questions in the industry — and the skepticism is earned. Homeowners who have been sold expensive guard systems that underperformed are vocal about it. A 2025 survey found roughly 70% of homeowners who purchased gutter guards did so primarily to prevent clogs — but a significant portion reported disappointment with the results.

Here is an honest answer rather than a sales answer.

When gutter guards are worth it: Properties with significant tree canopy — particularly pine trees that shed needles year-round, maples that drop seed clusters, or oaks with heavy leaf fall — accumulate debris in gutter channels faster than most homeowners want to clean them. On these properties, a high-quality micro-mesh guard that keeps debris out of the channel while allowing water to flow through performs as advertised and reduces maintenance frequency meaningfully. The investment makes sense.

When gutter guards are not worth it: A home with minimal surrounding vegetation and low debris accumulation does not need gutter guards. The channel stays clean between seasonal cleanings, and adding a guard system adds cost without a proportional performance benefit.

The guard type matters enormously: Not all gutter guards perform equally. Screen guards with large openings allow fine debris — pine needles, seed pods, shingle granules — to pass through and accumulate on the bottom of the channel where they compact and are harder to remove than surface debris. Foam inserts that sit inside the channel trap debris and can accelerate moisture retention and mold growth. High-quality micro-mesh guards with a fine stainless steel mesh layer keep the smallest debris out while allowing water flow — these are the type that perform as homeowners expect.

Our position: We recommend gutter guards when the site conditions warrant them — significant debris exposure, frequent clog history, documented maintenance burden. We do not include them in every replacement estimate as a default add-on. If we recommend guards on your property, we explain why. If we do not, we tell you why they are not warranted for your specific situation.

View gutter guards →

What a Gutter Replacement Includes — The Full Specification

Material — Seamless Aluminum, On-Site Fabricated

Each run is roll-formed on-site from a continuous aluminum coil to the exact length of the home's roofline — no field cuts produce joints. Standard .027 gauge for most residential applications. Heavy .032 gauge for larger homes, steeper pitches, or significant debris and hail exposure. Factory-applied baked enamel finish in the color selected at the estimate.

Profile — K-Style vs. Half-Round

K-style is the standard for residential replacement — flat back, shaped front, rectangular channel cross-section that carries more volume per inch than a round profile. Correct for the vast majority of homes.

Half-round is the period-appropriate choice for Craftsman, Victorian, Tudor, and similar architectural styles where the rounded profile matches the original design intent. Carries slightly less volume but performs correctly on moderate drainage loads.

Sizing — 5-Inch vs. 6-Inch

5-inch K-style handles typical residential drainage loads on most standard homes. 6-inch K-style carries approximately 40% more water volume and is warranted on large homes, steep pitches, or properties where Colorado's rapid snowmelt events produce high runoff volumes in a short time window. Precision Exteriors calculates drainage load on every estimate rather than defaulting to whatever was previously installed.

Hangers — Hidden Hanger Standard

Hidden hangers at 24-inch maximum spacing — closer on long runs and at corners. Fastened into rafter tails through the fascia wherever possible. No spike-and-ferrule installations.

Downspouts

2×3 inch rectangular for standard 5-inch runs. 3×4 inch for 6-inch runs and high-drainage-load applications. Positioned so no single downspout drains more than 35–40 linear feet. Discharge directed away from the foundation — extensions, elbows, and splash blocks as needed.

Drip Edge Integration

New gutter back flange positioned so the roofline drip edge overlaps into the channel — directing roof runoff into the gutter rather than behind it at the fascia.



Do I Need to Be Home During Installation?

This is the question every homeowner asks first — and the one they trust the least when a contractor answers it. They do not want to overpay for a full replacement when a repair would hold. They are also afraid of being talked into a repair that fails within a year.

Here is the honest framework we apply on every inspection.

Repair is the right answer when: The channel is structurally intact — no widespread corrosion, no oxidation through the aluminum wall, no deformation across multiple runs. The failure is localized: a single sagging section, a leaking end cap, a separated seam on an otherwise sound run, a disconnected downspout. The system is correctly sized for the drainage load it is receiving. In these cases, targeted repair restores drainage performance at a fraction of replacement cost and is what we recommend.

Replacement is the right answer when: Seam failures are recurring across multiple joints on an older sectional system — resealing one joint while the adjacent ones continue to fatigue is not a durable solution. The channel has corroded or oxidized through the wall at multiple points. The system is undersized and overflows regardless of condition. Storm damage has destroyed channel geometry across full runs. The fascia mounting surface has deteriorated past the point where new fasteners can hold. In these cases, repair does not solve the underlying problem — it defers it.

The answer we give on every estimate: We tell you which one it is — and why. We do not recommend replacement when repair is appropriate. The inspection findings drive the recommendation.

View gutter repair →



Seamless vs. Sectional Gutters — What the Real Difference Is

Most homeowners have no idea that seamless gutters are fabricated on-site at the property. Once they understand how the process works, the performance difference becomes obvious.

How sectional gutters are installed: Sectional gutters come in pre-cut lengths — typically 10-foot sections — that are joined together in the field. Every joint between sections requires a sealant bond to prevent leaking. A standard home might have 150–200 linear feet of gutter across all runs. On a sectional system, that is 15–20 field seams, each one a sealant bond subject to thermal cycling fatigue.

Colorado's 150+ annual freeze-thaw cycles expand and contract the aluminum at each joint throughout every season. Each cycle slightly fatigues the sealant bond. Within a few years, seams begin to fail — first as slow drips, then as open leaks. The homeowner calls for a repair. The seam is resealed. The adjacent seams continue to fatigue. The cycle repeats until the system is replaced.

How seamless gutters are installed: A seamless gutter system is roll-formed on-site from a continuous aluminum coil using a portable fabrication machine brought to the property. Each run — from one corner to the next — is formed as a single continuous piece cut to the exact length of that run. No field seams. No joints along the channel. The aluminum is matched to the exact profile, gauge, and color specified for the home.

The only seams in a seamless system are at inside and outside corners, outlets, and end caps — all of which are sealed during installation. The result is a system with dramatically fewer leak points than a sectional system, and those that exist are at fixed, known locations rather than distributed across every 10 feet of channel run.

Why this matters for longevity: Sectional systems do not fail because aluminum wears out. They fail because sealant bonds fail. Seamless systems eliminate the majority of those bonds. A correctly specified and installed seamless aluminum system on a Colorado home lasts 20–30 years. A sectional system on the same home, in the same climate, typically requires repair intervention every few years and full replacement well before the aluminum has reached its material lifespan.

Aluminum vs. Vinyl in Colorado — Why Material Selection Matters Here

This is a question that gets asked in Colorado more than almost anywhere else — and for a specific reason. A significant number of homeowners who are replacing gutters again within 10 years were sold vinyl systems on their last replacement.

The problem with vinyl gutters in Colorado: Vinyl becomes brittle in cold temperatures. At sustained sub-freezing temperatures — which Colorado sees regularly from November through March — vinyl gutter sections lose flexibility and become susceptible to cracking from impact, ice loading, and thermal contraction stress. A vinyl gutter that performs adequately in a mild climate fails progressively in Colorado's freeze-thaw environment, developing hairline cracks that widen over successive seasons until sections require replacement.

Colorado's 150+ annual freeze-thaw cycles compound this problem. Each cycle stresses the vinyl at every fastener hole, every joint, and every corner where thermal contraction forces are concentrated. Vinyl also fades and discolors under Colorado's high-altitude UV intensity — which is approximately 25% higher than at sea level — at a rate that makes systems look aged well before they are structurally failed.

Why aluminum is the correct specification for Colorado: Aluminum is ductile — it bends under stress rather than cracking. It handles freeze-thaw cycling without brittleness. It resists UV degradation far better than vinyl and retains its factory finish color for 20+ years on a quality installation. At .027 gauge standard or .032 heavy gauge, it resists hail denting better than vinyl and holds hidden hanger fasteners more securely through freeze-thaw cycling.

If your previous gutters failed within 10 years and you do not know why — look at the material. If they are vinyl, the Colorado climate is the answer. The correct replacement is seamless aluminum, not another round of the same material that failed.

Gutters as a Face Lift — The Curb Appeal Case for Replacement

Not every gutter replacement is driven by failure. A growing share of the projects we see are from homeowners who are not dealing with an active drainage problem — they are looking at stained, sagging, discolored gutters that are dragging down the appearance of an otherwise well-maintained home.

This is a legitimate and underappreciated case for replacement. Gutters run the full perimeter of the roofline — they are one of the most visible exterior elements on the home, particularly from the street. Old aluminum that has oxidized to a chalky white, vinyl that has faded to a dingy gray, or sectional systems where individual sections have been replaced over the years in mismatched colors — all of these make a home look older and less maintained than it is.

A new seamless aluminum system in a color matched to the home's exterior — selected from the manufacturer's standard baked-enamel color range — is one of the highest-return curb appeal investments available for the cost. It is substantially less expensive than new siding or a new roof, it is completed in a day, and the visible improvement is immediate along the entire roofline.

For homeowners preparing to sell, replacing old gutters before listing is a common and well-justified decision. For homeowners who have updated windows, doors, or siding and now want the gutters to match — seamless replacement makes the entire exterior look intentional rather than assembled over decades.

How Do I Know if My Fascia Is Damaged — and Does It Change the Scope?

This is the question homeowners most often feel blindsided by after receiving a replacement estimate. They called for gutters. The quote came back higher than expected. The reason is fascia damage.

Why fascia damage and gutter failure are connected: The fascia board is the mounting surface for the gutter system. When gutters fail — through seam leaks, end cap drips, or overflow — they deposit water against the fascia behind them at the same location every rain event. Over months and years, that sustained moisture exposure causes the fascia wood to soften, delaminate, and rot from behind. The damage is not visible from outside the gutter because the gutter face covers it. It only becomes apparent when the old gutter is removed.

The 70% rule: In our experience replacing gutters on older homes — and this aligns with what the industry consistently finds — approximately 70% of gutter replacement projects on homes with sagging or chronically leaking systems reveal some degree of fascia damage behind the failed section once the old gutter is removed. On homes where the gutters have been leaking for multiple seasons without repair, that percentage is higher.

What fascia damage repair involves: Deteriorated fascia sections are removed and replaced with new primed fascia board before the new gutter is installed. On limited sections — typically a few linear feet at one or two failure points — the repair adds to the scope but is manageable. On homes where fascia deterioration is widespread from years of gutter overflow, the repair scope is more significant. Either way, installing a new gutter system on compromised fascia is not a solution — the fasteners will not hold through the first winter, and the system will sag or pull within a season.

How we handle this on every estimate: We inspect fascia condition before providing a replacement estimate wherever possible. When fascia condition cannot be fully assessed until the old gutter is removed — which is sometimes the case when the damage is hidden behind the gutter face — we document the finding at removal and address the scope transparently before proceeding. No surprises after work has started.



Can Gutters Really Cause Foundation Damage?

Homeowners hear this from contractors and wonder whether it is a legitimate concern or a scare tactic to justify a larger scope. It is legitimate — and the mechanism is specific enough to evaluate rather than take on faith.

How it works: A gutter system's job is to collect roof runoff and direct it away from the structure through a controlled discharge point. When that system fails — overflow along the channel, discharge against the foundation wall, disconnected downspouts that deposit water at the base of the house — roof runoff that was supposed to travel 6–10 feet away from the foundation is instead deposited immediately adjacent to it with every rain event.

The consequences compound over time. Soil adjacent to the foundation that is repeatedly saturated expands, contracts, and erodes differently than properly draining soil. Foundation concrete that is in sustained contact with water at the footing level is subject to freeze-thaw spalling, efflorescence, and eventually cracking — particularly in Colorado's climate where freeze-thaw cycles number 150+ per year. Basement moisture intrusion and crawl space water entry are the early symptoms. Foundation movement and structural cracking are the downstream consequences of years without correction.

Proportional assessment: A gutter that has been overflowing for one season is not going to produce foundation problems. A gutter system that has been depositing water against the foundation for five or ten years, particularly on a home with a basement or crawl space, is a genuine risk. The concern is real and proportional to the duration and volume of misdirected drainage — not a scare tactic, but also not an emergency from a single storm event.



Are Gutter Guards Actually Worth It?

This is one of the most debated questions in the industry — and the skepticism is earned. Homeowners who have been sold expensive guard systems that underperformed are vocal about it. A 2025 survey found roughly 70% of homeowners who purchased gutter guards did so primarily to prevent clogs — but a significant portion reported disappointment with the results.

Here is an honest answer rather than a sales answer.

When gutter guards are worth it: Properties with significant tree canopy — particularly pine trees that shed needles year-round, maples that drop seed clusters, or oaks with heavy leaf fall — accumulate debris in gutter channels faster than most homeowners want to clean them. On these properties, a high-quality micro-mesh guard that keeps debris out of the channel while allowing water to flow through performs as advertised and reduces maintenance frequency meaningfully. The investment makes sense.

When gutter guards are not worth it: A home with minimal surrounding vegetation and low debris accumulation does not need gutter guards. The channel stays clean between seasonal cleanings, and adding a guard system adds cost without a proportional performance benefit.

The guard type matters enormously: Not all gutter guards perform equally. Screen guards with large openings allow fine debris — pine needles, seed pods, shingle granules — to pass through and accumulate on the bottom of the channel where they compact and are harder to remove than surface debris. Foam inserts that sit inside the channel trap debris and can accelerate moisture retention and mold growth. High-quality micro-mesh guards with a fine stainless steel mesh layer keep the smallest debris out while allowing water flow — these are the type that perform as homeowners expect.



Our position: We recommend gutter guards when the site conditions warrant them — significant debris exposure, frequent clog history, documented maintenance burden. We do not include them in every replacement estimate as a default add-on. If we recommend guards on your property, we explain why. If we do not, we tell you why they are not warranted for your specific situation.

View gutter guards →

What a Gutter Replacement Includes — The Full Specification

Material — Seamless Aluminum, On-Site Fabricated

Each run is roll-formed on-site from a continuous aluminum coil to the exact length of the home's roofline — no field cuts produce joints. Standard .027 gauge for most residential applications. Heavy .032 gauge for larger homes, steeper pitches, or significant debris and hail exposure. Factory-applied baked enamel finish in the color selected at the estimate.

Profile — K-Style vs. Half-Round

K-style is the standard for residential replacement — flat back, shaped front, rectangular channel cross-section that carries more volume per inch than a round profile. Correct for the vast majority of homes.

Half-round is the period-appropriate choice for Craftsman, Victorian, Tudor, and similar architectural styles where the rounded profile matches the original design intent. Carries slightly less volume but performs correctly on moderate drainage loads.

Sizing — 5-Inch vs. 6-Inch

5-inch K-style handles typical residential drainage loads on most standard homes. 6-inch K-style carries approximately 40% more water volume and is warranted on large homes, steep pitches, or properties where Colorado's rapid snowmelt events produce high runoff volumes in a short time window. Precision Exteriors calculates drainage load on every estimate rather than defaulting to whatever was previously installed.

Hangers — Hidden Hanger Standard

Hidden hangers at 24-inch maximum spacing — closer on long runs and at corners. Fastened into rafter tails through the fascia wherever possible. No spike-and-ferrule installations.

Downspouts

2×3 inch rectangular for standard 5-inch runs. 3×4 inch for 6-inch runs and high-drainage-load applications. Positioned so no single downspout drains more than 35–40 linear feet. Discharge directed away from the foundation — extensions, elbows, and splash blocks as needed.

Drip Edge Integration

New gutter back flange positioned so the roofline drip edge overlaps into the channel — directing roof runoff into the gutter rather than behind it at the fascia.



Do I Need to Be Home During Installation?

No — and this is a more common question than most homeowners expect. Installation does not require access to the interior of the home. The full replacement is completed from the exterior.

What we ask of homeowners: Before installation: Clear vehicles from the driveway if the roll-forming machine needs access along the roofline. Move any patio furniture or plantings that are directly below the gutter runs so they are not in the work area.

During installation: You do not need to be present. Our team works from ladders and the exterior only. We communicate with homeowners who want updates but do not require oversight to complete the work.

After installation: We do a full site cleanup before we leave — removed old gutter material, fasteners, and installation debris are cleared from the property. The water test confirming correct slope and drainage is completed before the crew leaves the site. If anything does not meet standard, it is corrected before we pack up.

Landscaping protection is part of every installation — we use standoff ladder mounts where possible to avoid direct contact with plantings, and we move and replace anything we need to work around.

Storm Damage Gutter Replacement — Insurance Claims

Gutter replacement following a storm event — hail, high wind, or debris impact — is frequently covered under standard homeowner's insurance policies.

What triggers a replacement scope on a claim: Consistent hail denting across the channel run, sections pulled from the fascia by wind, or debris impact that has crushed run lengths are all replacement scenarios under covered peril claims. When hail denting is widespread enough to restrict water flow or compromise channel integrity, replacement is the appropriate scope — not repair.

ACV vs. RCV on gutter replacement: On an RCV policy, the initial payment reflects the depreciated ACV of the existing system. Recoverable depreciation is released after replacement is completed and a completion package is submitted. On a full exterior storm claim combining roofing, siding, and gutters, the combined recoverable depreciation on an RCV policy is frequently $4,000–$10,000 or more. Precision Exteriors prepares the completion package on every RCV claim.

What gets missed on initial adjuster scopes: Gutters are one of the most commonly omitted items on initial storm damage estimates. Hail denting, pulled hangers, and fascia damage behind failed sections are routinely not included in the first scope. These are submitted as supplements — documented with photos, measurements, and code citations — and added to the claim after adjuster review.

Learn more about storm damage insurance claims →

Gutter Replacement — Frequently Asked Questions

A gutter replacement done right — seamless aluminum fabricated on-site to the exact dimensions of the home, correctly sized for the drainage load, hidden hangers at proper spacing, downspouts positioned and sized correctly — performs for 20–30 years without the chronic seam failure that drives repeat replacements. One that defaults to whatever was there before, in the same material, without evaluating the specification, repeats the same outcome.

Precision Exteriors Restoration. Seamless aluminum gutter replacement across Colorado's Front Range. Custom-fabricated for each home. Colorado License #0248041. 3,000+ completed projects. Owens Corning Preferred Contractor. CertainTeed Master Installer. BBB A+. 10-year workmanship warranty.



Free estimates. No obligation.

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